Carstensz Pyramid

March 19th- April 3rd, 2012

 

Carstensz Pyramid (16,024 ft, 4,884 m) is the highest peak in the oceanic continent and one of the seven summits.  This expedition in West Papua a providence of Indonesia, is possible the most exotic of the seven summits, and a unforgettable adventure even for those not seeking the seven summits.   It is located on the island of New Guinea, and is the highest peak between the Himalayas and the Andes, as well as, the highest island peak in the world.  This peak was first climbed in 1926 on an expedition led by Heinrich Harrer an Austrian mountaineer.   

 

We begin this trip in Bali, Indonesia a fun place to relax and celebrate on its beautiful beaches.  From Bali, we take a commercial flight to Timeka on the West Papuan Island followed by a flight on a twin Otter to Pinapa.  Here we will enjoy an evening in the chiefs house and meet our local porters from the Dani tribe for the trip.  Some of which still wear the traditional penis gourds. (see photo)

 

 

The next five days are spent trekking in through the jungle most of which is above 10,000ft with unique and incredible scenery.   On day five we arrive at our base camp situated by a high mountain lake and the 4000ft limestone walls.  

 

Our route ascends the limestone face with the crux moves at 5.6 rock climbing up to the ridge where we will traverse the ridge, using a Tyrollean traverse on a fixed cable at one point, then continuing on snow and mixed terrain to the summit.  

 

From the summit we can see the Freeport mine one of the world’s largest producers of gold and copper with private roads reaching very near.  Though these roads are off limits to all but those who work there.  

 

The morning after our summit we retrace our tracks back to Pinapa, continuing to Bali the next morning.  

 

Price:   $15,500

 

includes:

one night before and after trip in hotel in Bali, from Bali - Timika - Illaga roundtrip tickets and lodging, food on expedition,  international mountain guide and liability insurance, local porters and cooks, and group gear

 

does not include:

extra nights in Bali, tickets to Bali, personal gear, food and incidentals in Bali, travel insurance, international rescue insurance, and gratuities for guides and staff

 

 

Day 1:  Arrive in Bali, gear check

 

Day 2:  Fly to Timeka, stay in hotel

 

Day 3:  Fly to Illaga, hike 30 min. to chiefs house in Pinapa for greeting and dinner 

 

Day 4-8:  trek each day 6-8 hr including river crossings, muddy trails, rain, and spectacular scenery.  On the fifth day in we will arrive at base camp.

 

Day 9:  Summit day includes rock climbing, a traverse across snow on the summit ridge, and a tyrollean traverse

 

Day 10-13:  Trek out in 4 days back to Pinapa
Day 14:  Fly to Illaga and then to Bali

 

 

Posted via email from In The Company of Guides

Alps Classics!

Alp classic week 

So often we are asked ‘ I want a week long Alps classic… a little snow, a little rock, huts, trams… get an idea of the whole area and have a great adventure!  What are the possibilities?’ 

Love that! Are you in for a treat. With flexibility like that you are sure to be thrilled and we can orchestrate an excellent adventure that suits your desires, skill range and time. 

Based out of Chamonix we have easy access to the heart of the Alps where a quick tram ride brings you to such rock and alpine classics that dreams are made and realized on. 

Alpine classics examples: 

Cosmique arête .(5.5 rock, snow, exposure)

Midi/ Plan traverse (5.5 rock, snow/ ice, exposure)

W ridge Rochfort  (exposed ridge traverse, fantastic) 

Dente de Giante   (5.9, without using the fixed lines – uber classic!) 

Briethorn half traverse (mixed rock and snow to Altitude)

Pollux and Castor (steep rock on one and steep snow on the other --- perfect twins)

Monta Rosa (A five summated massif bordering Switzerland and Italy, sure to have something to ‘peak’ your interest) 

Dente Blanche (a remote pyramidal peak, classic of the Alps)

 

Price:

 

$600 per day:   1-1 ratio

$400 per day:   2-1 ratio

 

The Trilogy 

Of all the classic Alps trips that we have been asked about it is the trilogy of Mt Blanc, the Matterhorn and the Eiger.  Three great peaks steeped in history and mountaineering fascination. A dream of many an Alpinist to challenge oneself upon each of these peaks in ones lifetime and a great achievement to have at least tried let alone stand upon all three summits.

If one is ready and the weather and conditions are favorable we have many times been able to climb all three in a ten day period including acclimatization and traveling. It has been done and will be done again but giving a few extra days for weather and rest certainly ups the chances of success and so we feel that a full 13 day trip will give you the best chance possible to complete this audacious trilogy.

Time is precious, think about what you want to do and ask us for any advise. This will truly be an outstanding feather in the cap of any alpinist. 

Price: 

10 day trilogy:   $7000

13 day trilogy:

  $8500

 

Posted via email from In The Company of Guides

Tetons 2012

Todd and Winslow will be back in the Tetons next summer as it is so nice up there.  There are many fun climbing adventures!  The Grand Teton is a must if you have not done that one, and if you have I will mention a few other good ones such as Irene's arete or Open book on Disappointment Peak, Symmetry Spire, and Mt. Moran - CMC route, a fun two day adventure.  

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Larry,_Pasquel,_&_John_on_the_Grand_Teton_-Medium.m4v Watch on Posterous

You tube videos: 

 Owen Spalding Route!

Exum Ridge! - Chicago boys

Wind River Range and the Grand Teton combo! - Chris Cresente

Grand Teton - Owen Spalding with the Scull's

Climbing and Skiing the Grand Teton!

 

Posted via email from In The Company of Guides

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I was happy to be home after nearly 2 months away in Africa and Europe, but my rest was short lived.  Winslow had made plans for us to head to the Teton's for one last Grand trip.  I was game..I love the Tetons and I would have been climbing around here anyways...so why not go make a few more bucks!

We had a great group of guys, three friends for New York: Steve, Larry and Bruce.  They kept telling us that the climbing was way more difficult than they had anticipated..But they all did great!  We braved the wind and summitted just after 8 a.m.  We really enjoyed our Bonus trip on the Grand Teton!!

Posted via email from In The Company of Guides