It has been quite some time since we have made any new posts here. That is not because we haven't been getting into the mountains, but rather because we now seem to be perpetually in the mountains...that and the fact that any computer time we do have we have been dedicating to booking and organizing trips and working on our newest website. You can check out our website at www.inthecompanyofguides.com to see what is new and upcoming.
I have been asked by many people to update this blog, but I just don't have much time for it these days. I will give a brief recap of 2012 just to keep some interest alive. As I am writing this I am sitting in the Santiago airport en route to Antarctica, where both Winslow and I will be guiding for three months. On our schedules are a few Mt. Vinson trips (Mt. Vinson is the highest mountain in Antarctica and one of the 7 summits), the last degree (this is a ski trip to the south pole...we are dropped off at the 89 paralell and spend 7 to 10 skiing across the platue to the South Pole), and some climbing and skiing in the Ellsworth range (Last year I had a client for three weeks where our objective was to climb and ski first ascents. We were able to pluck a few plumbs and rack up 10 first ascents. we will try to do it again this year).
Antarctica is also where we began our 2012 year. For many of the last 10 years I have spent my holidays on "the ice" where I have racked up 16 ascents of Mt. Vinson, two of which were new routes. Last year I had the very unique opportunity to Climb many more first ascents including a FA of Mt. Sporli. Much of this was onsite exploratory climbing and skiing and possibly one of the more rewarding guiding I have ever done.
After Winslow and I returned from Antarctica we had a few weeks at home before leaving again for West Papua, Indonesia. This was a Carstensz Pyramid trip, which is the highest peak in austral asia and one of the seven summits. This was my second trip and Winslows first. We really enjoyed this trip, even though it is actually quite tough. The trip entails a 5 day trek through the Papuan jungle, assisted by members of the local Dani and Mani tribes. It was not only a great adventure but quite the cultural experience as well. These local tribes are some of the most primitive left in the world, many of whom have never been outside this very isolated region and whom still use traditional dress. I guess you call it dress, I question my wording because all the men wear is a hollowed out gourd slipped over their penis. Quite shocking at first sight and seemingly very uncomfortable and unpractible.
After our trek throught the jungle, where we were challenged by mud rain and very steep and difficult walking, we arrive at out base camp. Summit day is quite spectacular..it is 5.6 rock climbing on beautiful lime stone to the ridge, a tyrollian traverse and the some ridge walking to the summit. We were very successful getting all 5 of our folks to the summit. Two of whom completed their seven summits with this climb.
March brought us to Valdez Alaska where we had organized a week long ski vacation for five folks. We enjoyed 5 days backcountry skiing and heli skiing on the storied steeps aroud Thompson pass. This is a trip that I have now run three times and is quickly becoming one of my favorite trips of the year. The access is incredible, the views spectacular and the skiing unbeatable.
May brought us once again to Alaska, this time to the Ruth Gorge of the central Alaska range. A great friend and client, and I spent 2 weeks skiing and climbing peaks including Mt. Dicky and Explorers peak. We stayed in the Mt. house and really lived the good life, eating well and playing in one of the most beaufiful playgrouds in the world.
I had a few days off and then began my 17th Denali expedition. Denali, or Mt. McKinley is the the highest peak in North America and one of the seven summits. We had a tough one this year, only my third attempt where I did not summit and my first that was purely due to weather. We had a fun group though and they delt well with the situation and we really enjoyed each other and the mountain.
Always on the move..I only spent 4 days at home following my Alaska trip and headed straight to the Tetons of Wyoming. 20 days in the Tetons: One Grand Teton, One Middle Teton, two Tewinots and two Morans. A busy little stint climb some fun peaks with some great folks.
From the Tetons I headed to Europe to climb in the Alps. I really enjoy the Alps, it is gentlemans climbing. Light packs, huts and some of the most amazing, moderate technical climbing in the world. Not to mention the easy access to the worlds birth place of Alpine climbing. I lead trips of the Spegetti Traverse (Brighthorn, Lyscum, Pollex, Castor and the Monte Rosa), the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and the Eiger.
A few more day trips around Salt Lake City and a quick trip into the high Sierra and we are back to the present and headed to "the ice" Please check out our blog on the In The Company Of Guides website. We will try to post more there. Our contact info is there as well. Happy climbing!!!